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Messages - VE3VEE

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Thanks Mitch. I just got my rotator working for the very first time (on my kitchen floor) via Com2. When I make or buy the proper cable(s) for Com1, I hope it will work equally well.

73 Marvin VE3VEE

Mitch, would the cables that are being sold as "Null Modem DB9 ..." work for this purpose? There also seem to be some "Null Modem Adapters" on the market. Would these work for this? If not, I'll probably just cut a cable I have at home, and cross the #2 and #3 wires.


73 Marvin VE3VEE

Hi Greg,

Do you have the cable wired correctly? Pins 2 & 3 are reversed on COM1.

Mitch DJ0QN / K7DX

Are cables wired correctly for this purpose commercially available, or are we supposed to create one ourselves?

73 Marvin VE3VEE

Thanks much, Mitch!

Hi Dennis,

Thanks for clarifying. I suspected a control box was a must, but I might have misunderstood ON4AOI's reply.

At the present time I have no plans to build antennas for other bands in that remote QTH. If (or when) I get tired of 20m, I may replace the monobander with a large logperiodic or something else, but I have no plans at the moment to put more than a single antenna on that tower. But I plan on eventually using a PA there.

If I use Hy-Gain T-2X rotator and a Green Heron RT-21 ( ) rotator controller, is that all I need? I see that the RT-21 does have a RS232 port. Would an RS232 cable from RT-21 go directly to my existing Radio-RRC-1258MkIIs?

73 Marvin VE3VEE

Mitch and Guy, thanks very much for both of your replies. This is all very new to me, but I think, little-by-little, by reading, I'm starting to learn how all this works. I'm not there quite yet, but I will get there eventually :-)

A friend of mine suggested I'd consider buying a Hy-Gain T-2X rotator instead of the Yaesu G-1000, so I'm in the process of reading more reviews.

If you can buy a G-1000DXA without a controller box I would go for that
and buy also the  Webswitch 1216H + rotator controller 1216L.

I was under the impression the rotator's control box always needed to be there, and the other unit(s) were then connected to it. Are you saying if I buy 1216H + 1216L, all I need to then buy is a rotator without a control box?

73 Marvin VE3VEE

I have the following:
- A pair of RRC-1258MkIIs
- TS-480SAT
- Web Power Switch 7 by Digital Loggers, Inc.

The above equipment has been tested at a remote location 40 km from home, and it has worked reliably for the past two weeks.

The next step is to move the equipment to a different remote location, 190 km from home, where a 100 ft tower is awaiting. I have not yet purchased a rotator and related accessories, nor have I purchased an antenna yet. I've been considering a 20m monoband Yagi (undecided yet if 3, 4, or 5 elements).


1. I'm thinking of buying Yaesu G-1000DXA rotator, but I'm open to suggestions of different makes and models.

2. If I go with Yaesu G-1000DXA, do I need the included Control Box? I think I do. Or is there another control box by a different manufacturer more suitable for remote operation?

3. Do I need to buy Yaesu GS-232B? Is this all I need, or:

4. Do I also need to buy RC-1216H?

The way I think all this works is as follows: The Yaesu rotor cable goes to the the Yaesu control box, a cable from the Yaesu control box goes to Yaesu GS-232B, and a cable from Yaesu GS-232B goes to RC-1216H.

Am I understanding all this correctly, or am I making it too complicated? Can it work just the same without RC-1216H by plugging GS-232 to my RRC-1258MkIIs? If yes, what software would I use on my laptop to control the rotator?

I'm completely new to this, and any answers will be greatly appreciated. I want to avoid buying the wrong or unneeded equipment.

73 Marvin VE3VEE

I have the exact same question as John has posted above. Is this at all possible. Can anyone post a sentence or two to describe how it's done?

73 Marvin VE3VEE

Jan, it's not really a matter of "fixing" something, as of course nothing is broken, but modifying it would help making it easier to read by humans :-)

Thanks much, and I love RemoteRig!

P.S. I just set up my 1st remote a week ago, at a location 40 milometers from home, and I'm watching my "uptime" now to help me judge the reliably of the setup. I have to divide the value by 60, and then again by 60 (too much work) :-)

Would it be possible to include in one of the future firmware updates the "Uptime" value on the "Info" page to show Days, Hours, Minutes, and Seconds instead of just Seconds?

Thanks for your kind consideration.

73 Marvin VE3VEE

Hello all,

I will be setting up my first remote station in a rural area where internet is expensive. Would you guys be kind to share how many GB per month does your remote rig use and also how many hours per month you use the station? Low usage / moderate usage / heavy user? What can I expect my monthly internet usage be?

73 Marvin VE3VEE

SOLVED. It was my mistake. The Radio-RRC is supposed to be connected to the KEY-input of TS-480. I mistakenly connected to the PADDLE-input (which is located right beside the KEY-input). It will teach me a lesson to read the manual next time. But it was fun to operate as H5HEE instead of VE3VEE :-)

73 de VE3VEE

New RRC set
New user
Testing via home LAN (0 ms latency)

Playing a single dash results in transmitting three dots. If I want to send two dashes the TCVR sends 5 dots instead. Dots I can send just fine, it's only the dashes that it doesn't generate. However, I can hear my CW just fine from the TS-480 panel, but the TCVR transmits only dots, not a single dash. I first observed it as I attempted to make a test QSO. The station I called as "de ve3vee" answered: "h5hee" or something like that. That gave me the idea to monitor my transmitted signal with another RX.

I played with the delay settings, but that has no effect on anything as there's no latency issue here (testing just via home LAN).

I searched this forum, but it seems no-one has posted about this issue before.

73 de VE3VEE

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