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Messages - W1UE

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106
Ken- recheck your setup.  One of the DB9 cables is a null modem cable, and it must be in the correct position.  The DB9
cables are not interchangeable.

Dennis W1UE

107
L-P
According to the N1MM Radio Set-up window, the correct settings for N1MM are N82.  The default setup window for the FTDX5000 sets it up as N81, but if you read the print below it does state N82.  I would try the N82 settings at both radios.

I'm not sure how the FTDX5000 twin setup works.  With the K3 at my house, if I am connected to the radio at the transmitting site any changes I make in the config menus of the radio is really being made to the radio at the transmitting site.  If I am not connected, any changes I make in the config menus in the K3 at my house  are for the K3 at my house.  Of course, if you're not careful with what you change you may not be able to connect without more work.

Dennis W1UE



108
Have you made any adjustments in the radio communications parameters?  The defaults are CAT BPS 4800N82, CAT TOT 10msec. 

I would take a look at the N1MM settings, and the FT5000 settings, to make sure all the settings agree.  I would also try changing the baud rate, and making the CAT TOT a different number.  It could be, when tuning the radio, it isn't updating in time to make the correct radio data for the computer.  You may have to juggle baud rates and polling times to find something that will work with your new setup.  What works with this setup may also be different that what will work with another setup.

I would also update N1MM Logger to version 14.3.1 or better.  In the version 13.9.1, there was a bug where the semi-colon key would stop emulating the INS key, and the single quote key would stop emulating the "TU OH6LI" message.

By the way, I was part of the SE0X M2 as a remote operator- I was the op that worked you on 20M while sitting in my house in Marlborough, Ma, USA!

Dennis W1UE

109
J-P
I have made almost 10000 contest QSO split between RTTY, SSB, and CW- now done on a Remote Rig.  I'm using the K3 Twin, but I've configured it differently.

At the remote end, I don't have a computer connected to the radio.  The only radio connection is to the Remote Rig module.  N1MM does not run at the remote site.

At the control end, I have a computer with N1MM running on it.  I use a Winkey to generate CW, and I feed it to the Remote Rig CW input.  The paddle is connected to the paddle input of the Control Remote Rig unit.  All the N1MM configuration is done at the Control site, avoiding the problem that you cited.

I tried to set things up your way, and didn't like the results of using a desktop connection program to operate N1MM.  It works much better this way.

Dennis W1UE

110
Forgot another question.  Does the Samsung Air Laptop also supply your ethernet line for the Remote Rig unit through a Network Bridge?

111
J-P

A couple of questions on this:
You have two FTDX5000s, one at the remote site and one at the control site.
The Samsung Air Laptop and the USB adapter are also at the remote site?

Dennis W1UE




112
I solved this problem in a slightly different manner.

I made a one-shot delay relay box, that closes a relay for 1-2 seconds when AC is applied.
I then modified an Acom Control Head, by soldering the output of that one-shot to
the contacts of the Control Head switch that turns the amp on and off.   To turn the
amp on, I turn the Remote AC switch on, the one-shot fires, and the amp turns on.
To turn the amp off, I again turn the Remote AC on and the amp turns off.

I am using Acom Director software, and I can also turn the amp off by using that
software.  Turning it on, though, required the one-shot.

Dennis W1UE

113
Bingo!  I was using a straight through cable.  Put on a null modem cable, and it connected right away.

The null modem cable was still packed from my last trip.  The 3 cables I tried were all straight through cables.

DOH!

Thanks.

Dennis W1UE

114
One more bit- this K3 has been used as a remote K3, but never as a Control K3.   Now I want to use it as a Control K3.  Is there any thing special that needs to be done to the K3?

I've tried 3 different cables- no joy with any of them.  I will have a different K3 to try tomorrow.

Dennis W1UE

115
I don't have the ability to remove the power from the Remote RRC.  Since others have been able to connect, it doesn't seem like it would be ther problem.

I disconnected the DC power, and also removed the USB cable to make sure it didn't get any power that way.  Waited 5 minutes, then connected everything up.  No joy:
Connection Status: OK
SIP Status: Idle
Last SIP Error: None
RTP Status: Disconnected
UDP Cmd Status: Disconnected

I went one more step and removed the cover from the unit, to see if there was any visible damage to any of the parts inside the unit.  Directly behind the Com2 input for the Control radio RS232 connection, there is a part that is reddish with no part number visible on the top.  Above that part, there is what looks like an SMT cap that is there, and below that part there looks like a set of pads for an SMT cap, but no cap.  From the picture on the website (Open the Box), it appears that there is an SMT
cap there, but that could have changed in production.  There were also no little pieces of parts rolling around inside the cabinet, nor any traces of an SMT part left on the solder pads.  BTW, the SN on my unit is 4743.

I'm going to the Remote site tomorrow, so I could take this unit with me and see if it works when hooked to the local network.
If it doesn't work there, it certainly won't work over the Internet.

Also, I'm assuming that the DB9 adapter is just a gender changer, and not to convert the cable to a null modem type.

Dennis W1UE

116
DNS Status: OK, dzjah2om.ddns.remoterig.com = 66.31.240.232

DHCP is "yes"

Under IP settings:
IP Address: 192.168.1.170
Gateway: 192.168.1.1
DNS: 192.168.1.1

Control RRC located at my home.

Only hardware that changed in my system since it worked- the FIOS interface box got zapped a while back, probably from a surge on the AC line.  If it was zapped by a surge, nothing else in the house got zapped by that same surge.  Control unit
was on at the time, though.

Dennis W1UE

117
Yes, the Control location is outside the Remote network.  The location did work, and I haven't changed any of the settings that I know of.

A few more bits of info:
1. I hooked the K3 up to the computer today.  Communications from the K3 to N1MM and from N1MM to the K3 were all successful.
2. I can access the Control Remote unit via Microbit and over the web.
   The status shows that the radio is "Off" even when its on in front of me.  The SIP Status is Idle, and the DNS Status is OK.

I also hooked up the computer and N1MM via the Com1 on the Control unit.  I could not communicate with the local radio, but I'm not sure that it should work.

UE

118
My Remote rig was working fine as late as 3 months ago.  With the summer here, and other contests, I disconnected my K3 to use it elsewhere.  Finally got around to hooking it up this weekend, and find I can no longer access the remote station.

I have verified that the Remote Station works; 2 others have been able to access it with the settings that it has.  However, I
can't access it from my control unit.  I have checked the setups in Control and Remote units, and they match. 

When I turn my K3 on, it comes up in the NORM mode.  When I put it into the TERM mode, it just stays there with TERM on the LCD display.  It doesn't connect, the Remote unit radio doesn't say its on, and it just hangs there.

The only hardware changed since I know it worked was the replacement of the FIOS interface box.  Mine, and my neighbor's box, both got taken out apparently by a voltage surge.  The FIOS interface box was hard wired to the wireless modem, and the Remote Rig Control Unit was hardwired through a switch to the wireless router, but none of the other 10 or so items in the house that were hardwired to the FIOS box got zapped.

At this point, I'm getting frustrated and am out of ideas.  Any help?  Thanks.

Dennis W1UE

119
Next time it happens, I will check that.

Dennis W1UE

120
I have not seen the BSOD here- using Win7 64 bit.  I have noticed that the virtual serial port that I use for RTTY does stop working after awhile, and I find a reboot necessary for it to work again.  Yes, I have that USB port power control set at "Never
turn off", or whatever the wording is to keep Win7 from shutting down the power to the port.

Dennis W1UE

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